In a restored courtyard of former factories, MO had a vision from the get-go. Situated in coastal Liepāja, the restaurant was the first venue to launch in a then-abandoned wreck of warehouses that had once congregated along the Trade Canal’s banks. Pioneering a relaxed atmosphere and flexible menus, MO carved out a reputation for enticing bypassers off the canal promenade. Almost a decade later, it’s clear that the restaurant’s founding was catalytic. Life has returned to this corner of Liepāja.
Join us as we step inside the historic Julianna’s Courtyard – and see the impact MO has made on Europe’s upcoming Capital of Culture.
Diners enjoying locally sourced ingredients at MO (© Monta Reimane)
The Story of MO
Let’s start at the beginning: Jolanta Bula is at the helm of operations. A talented chef with nearly two decades of experience under her belt, Bula cut her teeth on the busy streets of the Latvian capital, Riga. Yet her sights always strayed a little further afield – a potential sign of the Liepāja-based project to come. Intrigued by travel and the innovation behind new dishes, Bula had a knack for the abstract. And when the notion of a possible venture on an abandoned promenade in Western Latvia began circulating, she was all in.Staring at the empty shell of a courtyard, it’s safe to say that the team behind MO required hefty imagination to envision a resurrection. The red-brick buildings had served many purposes: a printing house, a sandal factory, a sewing workshop and ship service warehouses for the once-bustling seafaring traffic on the canal. But in the 21st century, its functionality had ground to a halt; the factories were locked in limbo. Set just outside of central Liepāja, it felt like a forgotten section of the city’s history – industrial beauty bypassed for the allure of the nearby Liepāja Beach.
With loving efforts and careful restoration, MO was launched in 2016. Its goal? Breathing life back into the historic canal district by creating a meeting place for repeat guests.
A table overlooking the red-brick industrial buildings of Julianna's Courtyard (© Valters Pelns)
Stepping Inside
The exterior-to-interior transition is a fluid one. Crossing the threshold, diners are greeted by a sleek, dark interior with tasteful nods to the restaurant’s industrial location. Rustic wooden columns dot the restaurant floor, with black-metal chairs neatly parked next to grey-cloaked tables. Industrial-style chandeliers hover overhead – wrought from bronzed plumbing piping and illuminated by warm yellow lighting. If you look closely, you can see that the restaurant has retained its industrial piping, now painted black as a chameleon feature and ode to MO’s original purposes. Pull up a chair and soak it up.From a tabled perch, guests have a front-row seat to the happenings of Julianna’s Courtyard. The restaurant’s entrance is fronted with floor-to-ceiling windows, overlooking the red-brick factory opposite, and on summer evenings this space bustles with concerts and street performances.
MO's stylishly renovated dining room (© Valters Pelns)
The Menu
While touted as “traditionally Latvian”, MO’s menu takes a fluid approach. The restaurant rotates its dishes on a seasonal basis, leaning on close-knit connections with local producers, including beef farmers in neighbouring Kuldiga. There are cultural Latvian features to be appreciated too.One of these is the revered guest favourite: homemade Napoleon cake with condensed milk fondant. Just the name alone is enough to whisk Latvians back to the tastes of childhood. Yet the dish’s complex history simultaneously offers a profound opportunity to dive deeper into Liepāja and its backstory. Food historians hotly debate the dessert’s true origins, predominantly settling on the fact that it's a Russian derivative of a French-founded dish. Since Liepāja remained under the Soviet Union until 1990, the popularity of Napoleon cake is a lingering culinary ghost. The dessert is evidence of the influence of times gone by.
With that said, MO doesn’t exclude dishes without direct connections to Liepāja and its history. “I would say that our menu is international with a local touch – we offer what our guests like the most,” Bula explains. Don’t be surprised to find decadent foie gras on the appetiser menu; it’s just paired with Latvian-raised beef.
As for drinks? There’s a similar slant towards Latvian-made beverages. Taste the best of the country’s vodka, gin, draught beer, balsam and local kombuchas. Or keep it soft with seasonally adapted concoctions: homemade from produce like rhubarb, quince and blackcurrant.
A trio of snacks, from a chef who combines Latvian and international influences with aplomb (© Martins Vejs)
A Neighbourhood Reimagined…
Cast your mind back to MO’s original goal. In its historic Liepāja district, the restaurant strove to become a meeting place – somewhere to pioneer friendship, diversity and togetherness. After nearly a decade of operations, that vision has blossomed into reality.“Today, all the buildings in Julianna's Courtyard have been renovated,” Bula reveals. The industrial space has transformed into a blend of culture and gastronomy, with everything from barbers to co-working spaces and bars that spring into evening action. In this corner of Liepāja, there’s a near-constant buzz, like a time capsule that’s awakened.
MO rides the wave of steadily streaming visitors by utilising flexible opening times. The restaurant aims to meet demand: be that through breakfasts on Saturdays, lunch deals midweek or lingering dinners for romantic date nights. But MO isn’t just a success story; it’s a symbol of Liepāja’s development as a whole.
The inviting glow of MO's interior (© Ritvars Sprogis)
Why Everyone Is Talking About Liepāja
Latvia has quickly risen to international attention, although the eye-grabbing mixture of art nouveau and medieval architecture in Riga has previously stolen much of its spotlight. That is, until now.The European Commission has formally announced that Liepāja will take centre stage in 2027, as a designated Capital of Culture. Its application was a clear hit: the city made a compelling case for its “feisty force of creativity” and modelling of evolution following periods of unrest. For discerning travellers, planning a trip to Liepāja is a chance to get ahead of the game, appreciating its resilient beauty before mass crowds descend.
To fully comprehend the importance of Liepāja, prioritise learning its history beforehand. Liepāja fell under German occupation in WWI, briefly recovering before tragedy hit a second time, with its Jewish population suffering unfathomable atrocities during WWII. In what would be a third, and mighty, blow, it then became a closed military city under Soviet occupation. Despite establishing independence in 1990, the upheaval left the city’s economy crumbling. In a rush to erase its scars, factories and naval facilities were quickly abandoned, leaving derelict spaces like MO’s factory in Julianna’s Courtyard.
Fast-forward a few decades, and this tragic backstory has given rise to a city reborn. After an inspirational reclamation of dignified identity, Liepāja offers far more than an alternative seaside solace. The city is a chance to explore the intersection of some of Europe’s most impactful events, embracing resilience and engaging with meaningful tourism.
The St. Nicholas Naval Cathedral, one of Liepāja's many attractions (© sickysick/iStock)
A Day in Liepāja
Spending a day in Liepāja? The biggest question is where to possibly begin. The city provides such intense cultural depth, and its pale-gold beach is a far cry from Latvia’s native pine forests further inland. Hit the ground running and, ideally, rent a car for ease.Morning: Liepāja Fortress and Karosta
Grab breakfast in Vecpilsēta (the Old Town) before tackling Liepāja’s history head-on. Liepāja Fortress and its adjacent naval port, Karosta, are remnants of the city’s numerous occupations. This area is a significant first stop, and visitors should prioritise a tour of the 19th-century Karosta Prison. The cells and corridors are predominantly unchanged, providing an emotive immersion into the history of resistance and repression in Liepāja.Afternoon: Karosta Beaches
Liepāja is a sought-after region of Latvia’s western coastline, so incorporating some beach time is an absolute necessity. Suitably refreshed, take a 10-minute drive (or taxi ride) to the artillery batteries dotted along the northern shores. These secluded sands contain the solemn Northern Fort remains – now left to be lapped by waves, engulfed by sands and overgrown with undergrowth.
The beautiful Liepāja coastline and the remains of its Northern Forts (© Roman Drits/iStock)
Evening: Dinner and Drinks at Julianna’s Courtyard
Finish the afternoon with a 15-minute drive to Julianna’s Courtyard and the banks of the Trade Canal. Appreciate an immersion in Liepāja’s resurrected industrial buildings, dining at MO and tasting your way through seasonal Latvian produce. Treat yourself to drinks at an adjoining bar, like Miezis, afterwards, and check out any of the scheduled entertainment. The most ambitious of visitors could round off their day in Liepāja with sunset by the sea.MO is a story of identity and revival. Yet the restaurant is also an opportunity to dive deeper into the complex background of one of Europe’s most historic cities. 2027 is set to be a big year. But will you be experiencing Liepāja’s open arms before then?
Hero Image: An array of dishes to be enjoyed at MO in Liepāja, Latvia (© Valters Pelns)
This post is brought to you in partnership with Latvia Travel
